Neon streets and Zen retreats

Words Melinda Burton | Images Supplied

From the neon-lit buzz of Tokyo to the serene mountain onsens and Kyoto’s matcha-drenched tranquillity, this itinerary takes you on a perfectly balanced journey through Japan, offering equal parts adventure, elegance and immersion.

You’ve just landed in Tokyo, a city where centuries-old temples live harmoniously beneath space-age skyscrapers and the energy never sleeps. It’s a sensory overload and you are just getting started.

Let’s begin in Shibuya, the city’s energetic epicentre of youth culture and fashion. It’s not difficult to find the iconic Shibuya Crossing, affectionately named ‘the Scramble’, it’s arguably the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world. Head up to the rooftop of Shibuya Scramble Square for a panoramic view that stretches across the Tokyo skyline.

From here, it’s easy to see why Shibuya is considered a trendsetter in Japanese street style, with its maze of boutiques, shops and mega departments stores like the legendary Shibuya 109.

 

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Your next stop is teamLab Planets. Part digital art museum, part dreamscape, it’s a fully immersive, multi-sensory experience that blends light, sound, water and digital projections in a way that feels downright otherworldly. Wade barefoot through water filled with digital koi, wander floating flowers and even balance on fluorescent stepping stones.When you need a moment of calm, head to Hamarikyu Gardens, once the site of a 17th-century shogun’s villa. These meticulously maintained Edo-period gardens offer teahouses, saltwater ponds, and lush green walkways. It’s an oasis tucked into the edge of the city’s modern waterfront.For something vibrant and wildly fun, make your way to Harajuku. Stroll down Takeshita Street, a pedestrian only carnival of colour where cosplay meets kawaii; think overflowing crepes, pastel cotton candy, quirky fashion boutiques, manga mania and more.Balance out the buzz in Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, a tranquil green space featuring a trio of landscapes: Japanese, English and Frech. This is where Tokyo exhales, a perfect spot for an afternoon stroll beneath the cherry trees.

Next stop: Osaka, the city that never met a snack it couldn’t turn into an art form. Try Takoyaki (octopus) and okonomiyaki (savory pancakes). And if you have a sweet tooth? You’re in the right place.

Yatsuhashi is Kyoto’s signature sweet. Baked versions are crisp and cinnamon-flavoured, while the ‘nama’ (raw) ones are soft and filled with red bean paste. Or when it’s hot, grab a bowl of Kakigori, finely shaved ice topped with local favourites like matcha syrup, sweet red beans and condensed milk.

If you’re after a blockbuster kind of day, spend it at Universal Studios Japan, where the Wizarding World of Harry Potter and the newly opened Super Nintendo World turn fantasy into a very photogenic reality. There are over 60 attractions across ten themed zones and something for everyone! Even grown-ups can’t help but grin like kids here.

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The next day, catch your breath at Osaka Castle. This striking 16th century landmark is surrounded by moats and cherry trees. It’s a nod to Japan’s samurai past, sitting stoically in a city that never stops moving.

Then it’s on to Kyoto, the former imperial capital of Japan for over a thousand years until Tokyo took the crown in 1868. Kyoto is where time slows, temples rise and quiet beauty reigns. You’ll wander through ancient Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples and get lost in palace gardens that seem made for meditation.

For shoppers, Kyoto’s a treasure trove: beautifully decorated and lacquered chopsticks, hand-crafted ceramics, kitchen knives, and colourful kimonos are just the beginning. But the real magic begins in the Gion district. Renowned for its meticulously preserved traditional architecture, from wooden machiya townhouses to atmospheric tea houses and cobblestone laneways, everything here feels cinematic.

One of the must visit spots is Hanamikoji Street, a 360-metre stretch in the heart of Gion lined with traditional townhouses featuring red latticework and wooden fences that capture the essence of Kyoto’s refined beauty and cultural heritage. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of a geisha in full regalia.

While here, indulge in Kyoto’s crown jewel: matcha. The Uji region produces Japan’s finest thanks to its nutrient rich soil and centuries old tea-making mastery. Sip it in a quiet teahouse or try it in a dessert such as ice cream, parfaits, or mochi.

No visit to Kyoto is complete without a stroll through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, also known as the Sagano Bamboo Forest. This breathtaking destination is one of Kyoto’s most photographed sights, alongside the vermillion torii gates of Fushimi Inari Shrine and the golden Kinkaku-ji Temple. You can enter the grove just north of Tenryu-ji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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To round the trip out, it’s time to head north. Nestled in the mountains of Gunma Prefecture, Minakami is where the adventurous and the serenity-seekers meet and it’s also one of Japan’s most celebrated hot spring destinations. Stay in the Takaragawa Onsen, renowned for its expansive outdoor baths set along a scenic river, it provides a serene and authentic onsen experience with both mixed gender and women only bathing.The menu is a Kaiseki-style dinner that is a multicourse traditional Japanese meal that includes dishes such as crispy seafood tempura, shabu-shabu, grilled fish, sashimi, pickles and other seasonal mountain village cuisine.Japan is full of stunning contradictions: fast and slow, futuristic and ancient; and once you’ve experienced it through your own lens, you’ll understand why one trip doesn’t feel like enough.